If the timing belt has failed, the engine obviously won’t run because the camshaft won’t rotate when the crankshaft turns. If a pulley is worn or damaged, replace it. There should be no nicks, rough spots or other damage that could chew up the belt. Also, if the belt shows sign of physical wear, check the condition of the pulleys. Check pulley alignment and belt tension first. If the rubber is too hard to leave a mark, the belt needs to be replaced.Īny belt that shows obvious damage such as frayed or exposed cords, damaged teeth, hunks of rubber missing, deep cracks, excessive surface cracking or cracks near the base of the belt teeth should be replaced without delay!Ī timing belt may also have to be replaced if it is making objectionable noise. Another quick check is to push your fingernail into the rubber so see if it leaves a mark. If the backside of the timing belt is glazed or has a glossy appearance, it means the rubber is getting hard and the belt needs to be replaced. Some belts that look like new on the outside are dangerously weak on the inside and may fail without warning. The second is that a simple visual inspection won’t necessarily tell you if a belt is good or bad. One is that most timing belts are hidden beneath covers that must first be removed to inspect the belt. The only exception is GM’s recommendation to replace the timing belt at 100,000 miles on the 1998 1.0L 3-cylinder Chevy Metro.ĭetermining the true condition of a timing belt isn’t easy for two reasons.
But most belt manufacturers recommend replacing the timing belts on these engines at 60,000-mile intervals (see chart on page 21).
“Service as needed” was the only advice given in the repair manual. To better understand the cam drives on some of these GM applications, let’s take a closer look at a few examples to see what’s unique or different.įor starters, General Motors did not make a specific mileage replacement recommendation for many of its older belt-driven OHC motors.
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